Zanzibar Memoir
This is just a small glimpse of an ongoing project that I started in 1998 on the small island of Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa.
All of these photographs are made with my old 1930's Crown Graphic 4x5 camera and the New55 and old type 55 Polaroid film.
It has been an honor to develop friendships and collect stories within this beautiful Muslim community.
Please check back as I will be posting more portraits and the corresponding stories in the months ahead.
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My first trip to Zanzibar, Tanzania was in 1993. After months traveling overland through East Africa and I only intended to stay a few days, instead I got stuck waiting an additional six weeks for my visa to India. Meandering through the maze of streets of Stone Town, locals sitting in front of their homes began engaging me in conversation: “You have walked by me for several days now, sit down and tell me why you are here?” A mutual curiosity was sparked that lead in daily visits. By the end of my time a wonderful familiarity had grown. It was not my home, but somehow I felt like I belonged.
Zanzibar Memoir was created using an old 1930’s Crown Graphic 4x5 camera and Polaroid Type 55 black and white film. I started the project in the pre-digital era, and I chose that camera and film because the photograph (a positive and negative) is developed within 2 minutes, this allows us to work collaboratively.
Today my Zanzibari friends ask why I’m not using an iPhone because it would be so much easier. But I continue to rely on my 90-year-old camera because the meticulous process gives the photo-shoot time to become an in-depth experience together. When possible the photo-shoots are combined with a recorded interview as a way to collect the story of each individual and add to the larger community memoir.
This is a life-long project. With each return I re-photograph many of my same friends and community members and welcome new participants. I have witnessed children becoming adults, young people leaving the island in search of a better future, families growing and friends passing away. These photographs are the intricate thresholds where cultural difference, friendship, and our shared humanity converge. Please scroll to the right -------->>>
Agnes, 1998
Agnes was one of the first people I photographed when I started this project in 1998. She was brave to participate; it was a new experience for both of us. I was still becoming familiar with my large 1930’s Crown Graphic 4x5 camera and the Type 55 Polaroid film and we were both anxious to see if it would actually work. After Agnes saw the first image of herself, she took and deep breath and said “Bring the camera closer Laena, I want to look into the camera.”
Eddy, Super Black Magic
Big Tree near Mnara Wa Mboa, 2018
Nassor and Shemsa, 2007, 2016
Shemsa and Nassor were no longer married when I returned to Zanzibar in 2016. Shemsa decided it would be worthwhile to make another portrait, even if Nassor was not in it. As I set up my tripod and camera, Shemsa positioned herself in the exact place she had previously been seated. Then, as if out of nowhere, Nassor appeared. He was just walking by. None of us could believe the serendipitous timing - a complete coincidence. We all laughed and agreed that the new photograph should include both of them. It was heartening to see the enduring friendship they had developed over the years and with the changes.
Ibrahim, 2016
Zainab and Her Friends, 2016
Vuga Road, Stone Town, 2016
Riziki and Fatma, 2007
Makame and Subira 2007, 2016
Makame’s wife’s name Subira means ‘patience’ - to have the ability to wait, to be patient. Twenty-three years ago Makame and Saburi met because they lived near each other, he remembers the exact date, it was October 10th, 1993. He told me he knew right away it was love.
Usually a gift is given to the bride’s family when a marriage takes place; sometimes it is money 100,000, 200,000 or more Tanzanian Shillings.
For five years they dated before Makame was prepared to ask for Subira's hand in marriage. They now have a beautiful family with eight children and a home in Magogoni village.
Zulekha, 2016
The Peace Lovers Soccer Team, 2007, 2016
In 2007, as I finished photographing Shemsa and Nassor, I heard someone behind me say “We are ready for you now”. I turned around to see these young men, who I had not yet met, patiently posing for a self-declared team photo. I followed their lead. I later learned they had all run home for their matching uniforms in preparation for that moment.
There were 10 players on the Peace Lovers Soccer Team, they stayed together for ten years and they started playing together when they were ten years old. The boys were not in a league and never played against another team, instead they played with each other. They also studied together at the Al-Barky Koran School, which provided them with the matching soccer uniforms. The friends met up almost everyday to play ‘street games’ in their neighborhood of Stone Town.
When I reunited with a few of them nine years later, Saad (front left) was happy for the earlier memory, saying it was the only photograph he had of himself from that time in his life.
Kauther, 2018
Grandmother with her grandchildren in front of their house near Bungi Village, 2016.
The Zanzibar Trans-World Academy, 2018
Police Officers, 2016
Issa, 2016
Mathew Joseph and his Stone Town Neighbors, 2016
The Sultan's Palace Museum, 2018
Munira, 2016
“My name is Munira. I’m 30 years of age. I’m from Iringa, Tanzania. I’ve been in Zanzibar since 1998. I work at an international radio statin in Zanzibar. I’m happy with my life I enjoy spending Sunday by the seaside, I have one daughter and I love my family especially my Mum and child.”
The Coal Seller's Children, 2016
Marym, 2016
Ashanti and Ahmed, 2016
“My name is Ahmed Aboud Juma. I’m 16 years of age and I was born 10/23/2000. I study at the Fuoni School, I am in form two, class ten. This picture was taken with my sister, her name is Ashanti, she is in class five.
When I finish school my dream is to become a football player so that I can help my family in their future life.”
Zuhra and Hassan, 2007
Marym, Fishseller, 2016
Makame, 2018
Baobab Tree near Bungi Village, 2016
4x5 inch negatives hanging to dry in my room.